Danish textile art and design history

MARIE GUDME LETH – A PIONEER IN DANISH TEXTILE PRINTING

Marie Gudme Leth (1895–1997) was a pioneer in textile printing and a key figure in the revival of this craft in 20th-century Denmark. Her work left a significant mark on both craft and design history, paving the way for textile printing to be recognized as an art form during a time when it was at risk of being forgotten.

A LIFE-CHANGING JOURNEY TO JAVA

Marie Gudme Leth’s fascination with textiles began early, but it was a journey to Java in 1921 that truly shaped her career. Over three years, she studied the intricate techniques of batik and found deep inspiration in the interplay of colors and patterns. This experience became the foundation of her artistic vision upon her return to Denmark.

REVIVING A FORGOTTEN CRAFT

When she came back home, Gudme Leth sought to further her education in textile printing. However, Denmark no longer had any active traditions in this field. During the 18th and 19th centuries, printing and dyeing workshops had been present in Copenhagen and rural areas, but by the late 19th century, mass imports of foreign industrial products had effectively eradicated the local craft.

At the time, textile prints were primarily imported from German and British factories, which Gudme Leth found "unpleasant and ugly." Her ambition was not just to create textiles as a hobby but to establish textile printing as a Danish craft that could rival and surpass imported products in quality and beauty. Her dedication to putting textile printing on the global map was a resounding success.

INTERNATIONAL RECOGNITION

In 1935, Gudme Leth founded Dansk Kattuntrykkeri, where she designed and printed textiles that combined traditional craftsmanship with modern design. Her patterns, often inspired by nature and Nordic landscapes, gained rapid popularity both nationally and internationally. Her work was highly acclaimed, earning her prestigious awards such as the gold medal at the 1937 World Exhibition in Paris and the 1951 Milan Triennial. In the 1950s, her textiles became sought-after in the United States and Canada for their Scandinavian simplicity and exceptional quality.

AN EDUCATOR AND SOURCE OF INSPIRATION

As the head of the textile printing class at the School of Applied Arts in Copenhagen, Gudme Leth played a significant role in training the next generation of textile artists. She generously shared her expertise and inspired many to see textile printing as more than just a craft — as an art form with cultural and aesthetic significance.

A LASTING LEGACY

Since 2006, Marie Gudme Leth’s life’s work has been part of the Danish Ministry of Culture’s Canon for Design and Craftsmanship, recognizing her importance in Danish design tradition. Her contributions not only preserved textile printing as an artistic technique but also established it as a central element in modern design history. With her visionary design Marie Gudme Leth continues to inspire artists and designers worldwide through her groundbreaking work. She proved that textiles can be much more than everyday items—they can be art pieces that enrich our lives.

THE "KIRSEBÆR" PATTERN

The joyful and colorful Kirsebær pattern, featuring birds surrounded by cherry and peach branches, has become iconic in Danish artisan tradition. Its elegant and airy composition gained particular popularity when Queen Ingrid chose it to decorate one of the princesses' rooms.

Flowers were a central inspiration for Gudme Leth, and as a skilled illustrator, she often drew from the Danish flora. The Kirsebær pattern is a prime example of the flourishing style Gudme Leth introduced in the early 1940s. She described this approach as a response to the dark times of World War II and the German occupation:
"In dark times, people needed bright colors and cheerful patterns indoors."

This design was also the first to utilize a new technique that transferred the motif photographically to the printing screens, allowing for even greater precision in the pattern details.

Through her craft and designs, Marie Gudme Leth sought to bring beauty into people's homes. Today, by continuing to produce her work, we aim to revive and honor her timeless vision.