Marie Gudme Leth

Pioneer in Danish textile printing

Marie Gudme Leth (1895–1997) was a pioneer in textile printing and a central figure in the revival of this craft in 20th century Denmark. Her work has left a significant mark on both the history of fine arts and design, and she paved the way for textile printing as an art form at a time when it was in danger of being forgotten.

A trip to Java that changed everything

Marie Gudme Leth's fascination with textiles began early, but it was a trip to Java in 1921 that shaped her career. For three years, she studied the complex techniques of batik and found deep inspiration in how colors and patterns could interact. This experience became the basis for her artistic vision when she returned to Denmark.

A forgotten craft is revived

When Marie returned home, she wanted to further her education in textile printing. However, in Denmark there was no longer any tradition to build on. During the 18th and 19th centuries there had been printing and dyeing factories both in Copenhagen and in the countryside, but during the 19th century the country had been flooded with foreign industrial products that completely eliminated the old crafts.

Textile printing was now mainly imported from German and English factories and Marie Gudme Leth found these “unpleasant and ugly”. She did not just want to transfer her designs to textile printing as a hobby, but she wanted to make textile printing a Danish craft that could compete with the imported textiles and preferably surpass them in quality and beauty. Gudme Leth had the ambition to put textile printing on the world map, and she succeeded.

International recognition

Marie Gudme Leths started Dansk Kattuntrykkeri in 1935, where she designed and printed textiles that combined traditional craftsmanship with modern design. Her patterns, which often drew inspiration from nature and Nordic landscapes, quickly became popular both nationally and internationally. Her work received great acclaim and she won prestigious awards, such as the gold medal at the Paris World Exhibition in 1937 and the Milan Triennale in 1951. During the 1950s, her textiles also became sought after in the United States and Canada, where they were appreciated for their Scandinavian simplicity and high quality.

An educator and source of inspiration

As the leader of the textile printing class at the Copenhagen School of Fine Arts, Gudme Leth helped educate the next generation of textile artists. She generously shared her knowledge and inspired many to see textile printing as more than just a craft, but as an art form with cultural and aesthetic significance.

A legacy that lives on

Marie Gudme Leth's life's work has been part of the Ministry of Culture's Cultural Canon for Design and Crafts since 2006, which is a recognition of her importance to Danish design tradition. Her work has not only preserved textile printing as an artistic technique but also established it as a central part of modern design history.

With her visionary designs and groundbreaking work, Marie Gudme Leth continues to be a source of inspiration for artists and designers worldwide. She showed that textiles can be much more than everyday objects. Textiles can be works of art that enrich our lives.

The pattern Cherries

The cheerful and colorful pattern of birds surrounded by cherry and peach branch motifs has become iconic in the Danish craft tradition. The elegant and airy composition gained particular popularity when Queen Ingrid chose it to decorate one of the princesses' rooms.

Flowers were dear to Marie Gudme Leth's heart, and as a skilled illustrator she drew inspiration from the Danish flora. The cherry pattern is an example of the flourishing style that Gudme Leth introduced in the early 1940s. She herself described this style as a reaction to the contemporary dark times during World War II and the German occupation: "During a dark time, you needed bright colors and happy elements indoors."

This pattern was also the first to be printed using a new technique where the motif was transferred photographically to the printing frames. This allowed for even greater precision in the details of the drawing itself.

With her craftsmanship and design, Marie Gudme Leth wanted to spread beauty in people's homes, and with our production we hope to revive her vision.

Sources: Gudmeleth.dk , Google Arts & Culture – Design Museum Denmark , Marie Gudme Leth – a pioneer in Danish fabric printing